Interview with Käpt'n Cheese
A Kieler who knows cheese!
Markus Bornholdt, better known as Käpt'n Cheese, takes us on a delightful journey through the world of cheese - full of flavours, stories and North German charm. In this interview, he talks about his life as a cheese sommelier, his favourite varieties and why Kiel is more than just his home port.
Ahoy Markus, how does it feel to be surrounded almost exclusively by cheese at work - doesn't it get too cheesy sometimes?
Strangely enough, no. The exciting thing about cheese is that there's always something new to discover: for example, new insights into cheese-making cultures, new historical facts and, of course, new types of cheese.
How did you get from the food industry to becoming a qualified cheese captain - was it planned or was it more love at first bite?
Actually, it all came about by chance. I'm always on the lookout for new impulses and a representative of the "lifelong learning" team. My grandma probably passed that on to me. A few years after my first encounter with this fascinating food, when I heard about the training course to become a qualified cheese sommelier, my instinct told me "You have to do it!". And at the same time, it also led to a more intensive professional relationship with cheese - so it was a good decision.
And how has your career path towards cheese developed since then?
To this day, I have always had the opportunity to focus my work even more on cheese. I train counter staff in northern Germany full-time for EDEKA Nord and support my fellow sommeliers in terms of knowledge retention and further training on a voluntary basis as the second member of the board of the Association of Cheese Sommeliers. I also have my small business Käpt'n Cheese, which I use to organize cheese tastings and offer marketing services for cheese dairies, for example.
What was your "magic moment" with cheese - do you remember the first variety that got you so excited?
A colleague at the time brought a piece of Morbier to the office. During the tasting, she explained how this cheese got its distinctive horizontal layer of ash. This little story aroused my interest and soon led to the purchase of the first books about this great food. At the time, we had no idea what she had done with it.
Be honest: are there any cheeses that you don't like at all?
I'm sure there are. However, over the years I have realized that cheese is almost like music. Everything has its hour and an apparently bad cheese may just be enjoyed at the wrong time. Perhaps a cheese is not the star of the cheeseboard, but plays a starring role in the kitchen as an ingredient in a gratin or as a filling?
„Over the years I have realized that cheese is almost like music. Everything has its hour and an apparently bad cheese may just be enjoyed at the wrong time.“
Käpt'n Cheese
As a cheese sommelier, fromelier and author, what is it about cheese that still fascinates you after 20 years?
For me, it's the versatility of the subject: you can't just approach cheese through its flavour. There are so many different areas, for example cheese pairing, i.e. the combination with other foods such as wine, beer, spirits or teas, if we want to stay in the sensory field. There are historical backgrounds and anecdotes to discover for many types of cheese and even if I've visited a cheese dairy 20 times, I always find new aspects and details. In addition, there is the exchange in a very special, loving community whose members are spread all over the world.
What makes a really good cheese for you?
A good cheese always starts with species-appropriate, responsible animal husbandry. It's the same with animals as it is with us: you can only expect good work if we are doing well. This also applies to the milk, which is the basis of every cheese. Other factors are the artisanal and gentle processing of the milk, the choice of ripening cultures and the ripening conditions.
„A good cheese always starts with species-appropriate, responsible animal husbandry.“
Käpt'n Cheese
What do you look for when tasting?
When tasting, I try to involve all my senses. Firstly, I look at a cheese and feel its rind and consistency. In the next step, I smell the paste and rind, preferably with my eyes closed, so that I can concentrate fully on the impressions. The last step is the taste, which involves the nose retronasally. You mustn't forget that the smell makes up the largest part of the flavor.
A journey of pleasure, cheese comedy or an educational journey with a bite - what can guests expect at the "Cheese meets wine" event at Kiel's boat harbour?
"Cheese meets wine" will be a great event! This year, our guests can expect a selection of 6 different cheese specialities from member companies of the Käsestraße Schleswig-Holstein e. V., which will not only be accompanied by fine wines to enjoy, but also interesting and interesting facts to learn. It is important to me to convey the whole thing with a good dose of humour. After all, enjoying cheese should be fun!
What does Kiel mean to you - and how is your love for the city reflected in your work?
Kiel has been my home for around 17 years now. This endearing city has the amenities of a big city and the charm of a village at the same time. It's a feel-good place. As far as my work is concerned, Kiel, with its harbour and maritime touch, certainly played a not insignificant role in the naming of Käpt'n Cheese. However, the supposed fictional character of the "Captain" is quite real - the typical Elbe sailing boat is not a prop, but an item of clothing used on a daily basis. The captain, who is responsible for the safe transport of passengers and equipment at sea, takes interested guests through the cheese oceans, either to discover new types of cheese or to enjoy some cheese infotainment in a fun atmosphere.
What role does Schleswig-Holstein play in the cheese landscape - are there any underestimated treasures here?
If you just look at Germany, northern Germany (and therefore Schleswig-Holstein) is one of the historically important cheese regions. We have known about rennet cheese production here since the early Middle Ages at the latest, and the preparation of sour milk cheese probably dates back as far as the Stone Age. A cheese similar to Tilsiter is mentioned in eastern Schleswig-Holstein as early as the 15th century, and at the end of the Thirty Years' War in 1648, many Dutch religious refugees came to the country via North Friesland, whose knowledge led to a significant improvement in our cheese-making culture. Today, this heritage is largely carried on by the members of Käsestraße Schleswig-Holstein e. V. and there are plenty of high-quality, artisan cheeses to discover here that need not shy away from comparison with the great international cheese specialities.
Where in Kiel do you like to enjoy cheese or get culinary inspiration?
My favourite place to enjoy cheese is at home with my family in Wellsee. Here I can experiment in peace and find new combinations. It's also fun when you can try them out with family, friends or neighbours. It also gives you valuable feedback. I find culinary inspiration above all in dialogue with colleagues. It quickly becomes interesting, especially when they come from other parts of the world.
„When tasting, I try to involve all my senses.“
Käpt'n Cheese
Is there a type of cheese that you've never tried but really want to?
Oh, there are quite a few... Humboldt Fog comes to mind, a soft cheese made from goat's milk in California. South Africa also has plenty of exciting cheeses to offer, such as Huguenot from Dalewood Fromage. And a Swedish cheese made from reindeer milk has yet to make it onto my plate.
What would you say to someone who says: "I don't like cheese at all?"
I often come across people who say this. I think it's because they simply haven't found the right cheese yet. So far, I've been lucky enough to "convert" "cheese haters" to cheese fans in a tasting session a few times. This is always incredibly motivating for me. At the end of the day, however, we humans have our very own individual tastes - each of us for ourselves. So it's perfectly okay to decide against cheese. Personally, I would just be missing something in my life.
„So far, I've been lucky enough to "convert" "cheese haters" to cheese fans in a tasting session a few times. This is always incredibly motivating for me.“
Käpt'n Cheese
Quick round at the end:
Prefer mild or spicy? Spicy!
Cheese on pizza - heavenly or not worthy of cheese? Pizza without cheese is unthinkable!
Favorite bread with cheese: brown bread, sourdough or baguette? It always depends on the intensity of the cheese.
Cheese from France, Switzerland or Schleswig-Holstein? All of them!
Should I eat the rind or take it off? Artificial rinds off, natural rinds you have to try. It can be an enrichment to eat them too.
Goat's cheese: big fan or rather meh? A fan, definitely!
Cheese from the weekly market or from the delicatessen? Both and.
Team raclette or team fondue? More like Team Raclette, but I also like fondue.
If you would like to find out more about cheese, you are welcome to follow Captain Cheese on Instagram (@kaptncheese) or perhaps take a look at his book "Cheese for Dummies". And who knows, maybe you'll get to meet the Captain in person at a Cheesetalk.